Acid Trip: A Definitive Guide to the Different Types of Skincare Acids – Gritty Pretty
In the Spring 2019 issue of Gritty Pretty, Dr Joseph Hkeik shares his knowledge of acids in relation to the skin. This will assist you in figuring out which type/s work specifically for your skin type.
The article by Hannah Paul is titled ACID TRIP: A DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF SKINCARE ACIDS.
View full article HERE.
We extracted the parts that feature Dr Hkeik from the article:
“Lactic acid is a hydroxy acid derived from sour milk,” says Dr. Hkeik. “It dissolves the bonds that hold skin cells together but is also extremely hydrating; it is anti-inflammatory with antibacterial properties as well.” According to Dr. Hkeik, lactic acid is suitable for all skin types.
“Glycolic acid is most effective for correcting sun damage, smoothing fine lines, as well as reducing acne, dullness, oiliness and uneven skin texture,” explains Dr Hkeik. “Congested and oily skin types respond particularly well to glycolic acid.”
If next-level clarity is what you’re after, salicylic acid is one of your best bets, advises Dr Hkeik. “Salicylic acid works best for oily, acne-prone, congested skin. Its anti-inflammatory profile makes it suitable for sensitive skin types.”
Prone to pigmentation? Azelaic-based products, including Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster, can help with that. “Azelaic acid is a pigment-inhibiting ingredient, so it is excellent for the management of dark spots and all pigmentary concerns, including melasma,” says Dr Hkeik.
While it is suitable for every skin type, Dr Hkeik recommends products such as The Inkey List’s Polyglutamic Acid for ageing skin. “Polyglutamic acid minimises signs of ageing such as lines, wrinkles and pigmentation, by smoothing lines and texture.”
“Mandelic acid is gentler due to its larger molecular size,” explains Dr Hkeik. “By taking longer to penetrate the skin, it’s not as potentially irritating.”
As a compound produced naturally in the human body, as well as in food, ALA doesn’t require everyday application, explains Dr Hkeik. “In skin products, it is a highly potent antioxidant used for improvement of skin texture and appearance.” We love The Ordinary’s Alpha Lipoic Acid 5% – use every two to three days for a pick-me-up.
“The greatest gift of retinoic acid, while being a great resurfacing agent, is that it also stimulates collagen and elastin proteins,” shares Dr Hkeik. In short, skin will be smoother, tighter and healthier.
Consider this your warning not to go HAM: retinoic acid is seriously active. Dr Hkeik suggests you start small, mixing a few drops of Skin Regimen’s 1.5 Retinol Booster into your night cream: “Retinoic acid is best tolerated by thickened, sun-damaged and generally non-sensitive skin types.”
“Ferulic acid combines particularly well with vitamin C (for example, in the Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum), as it boosts photo-protection as well as stabilising the notoriously fickle antioxidant,” says Dr Hkeik. “However, there also are certainly great benefits of using it alone.”
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